Fried Green Tomatoes with Tonnato Sauce – Full Circle Cooking Episode 3

Still, I lay in wait for tomato season. That sumptuous crimson delight who tempts me to become lost within her splendor, whose firm, silken bosom casts shadows upon my mind, and– 

Oh, uh, hey, Antler River Media. 

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How did you get in here? 

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You want another article? 

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Yeah, I know just the thing.

Welcome back to Full Circle Cooking! 

It’s summer now, everyone’s tired and sticky, and nobody feels like cooking anything elaborate. Further, more and more produce is coming into peak season. This is the time where cooks set their egos aside and recognize when a beautiful fruit or vegetable doesn’t need much human intervention.

That being said, my absolute favourite vegetable, the noble tomato, is still a ways away from being ready. But forgive me, I simply couldn’t wait any longer. 

So, fried green tomatoes. A great movie and an even greater way to get a jump on tomato season. Today we’ll pair it with a creamy and savoury tonnato — a classic Italian sauce which is way, way more than the sum of its parts. 

My take on Fried Green Tomatoes 

Serves 4

• 2 large green beefsteak tomatoes or 4-6 tomatillos
• ⅔ cup corn flour
• ⅔ cup semolina flour
• 1 ½ cups Italian bread crumbs
• 1 tsp fresh thyme or ½ tsp dried thyme
• ½ tsp dried parsley
• ½ tsp dried oregano
• ½ tsp black pepper
• 3 egg whites + 1 whole egg
• Kosher salt 

1. Cut the tomatoes or tomatillos into centimetre-thick slices. Salt on both sides and let sit until the salt dissolves and the cut surface is dewy. 
2. Whisk together the corn flour and semolina flour.
   • I use both because I like the flavour of corn flour and the coarseness of semolina. Feel free to use one or the other, or whatever flour you have. 
3. Whisk together the breadcrumbs with the thyme, parsley, oregano, black pepper and a pinch of salt. 
4. Beat the eggs and egg whites with about a tablespoon of water until very thoroughly combined.
   • When separating the egg whites, reserve the yolks as we will use them in the sauce! 
5. Bring a frying pan or cast iron skillet to medium heat, then add enough olive oil to thickly coat the surface of the pan. 
6. Pat some of the excess moisture from the tomatoes. One slice at a time, toss first in the flour, then the egg wash, then the seasoned breadcrumbs.
   • Use one hand for the flour and breading, and the other for the eggs. This prevents breaded fingers. 
7. Immediately lay the breaded slice into the pan and cook until deeply golden brown, about one minute on each side.
   • You may need to adjust the heat to maintain a consistent temperature as you add more and more slices. Too hot and the breading burns before the tomato cooks. Too cold and the breading absorbs the oil and doesn’t crisp up properly. But don’t overthink it.
8. Put the cooked slices on a plate lined with paper towels and immediately season with salt to taste. 

Tonnato sauce

• 3 egg yolks
• 1 jar oil-packed tuna plus all the oil
  • As the main ingredient in this sauce, the quality of the tuna really does make a difference. I like the Callipo brand, which is pretty cheap and available at most grocery stores. 
• 1 clove of garlic
• 2 anchovies 
• 1 tablespoon capers
• Zest and juice of one lemon
• ~½ cup Olive oil
• Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
  • The nutmeg isn’t traditional but I really like it. Be careful to not add too much, as it can easily take over a dish. 

1. Add the egg yolks to an immersion blender cup, then add all the other ingredients on top except the olive oil.
2. Start blending from the bottom of the cup, slowly moving the immersion blender up through the mixture until it is fully emulsified.
3. Add about 1 tsp of olive oil at a time and incorporate fully before adding the next tsp. 

Alternatively, you can add all the ingredients aside from the olive oil to a blender bowl and combine fully, then slowly drizzle the oil while running the blender on low speed. 

Either way, you should be left with what is essentially a tuna mayonnaise which sounds a little nasty but it’s bright, lively, delicious and helps offset the acidity of the tomatoes to complement the richness of the breading. 

Plating 

Lay a generous handful of fresh, flavourful greens to a shallow bowl or high-rimmed plate. I used arugula but you could use spinach, mizuna, sauteed swiss chard, or whatever you want. 

Pour enough of the tonnato sauce into the center of the bowl to mostly cover the greens. Layer the piping hot fried green tomatoes overtop and garnish with flaky salt and lemon verbena if you have ‘em. 

Sea salt and parsley, chives or basil are also acceptable. Serve with a lemon wedge if you feel like it.

See Episode 2 of Full Circle Cooking here!